Journey into the Past
October 8 - 16 2005. Long stretch of holidays. Ideal time for a getaway. I made use of this opportunity and I was driving a long way into the ruins which stands as a testimony to the the flourishing Vijayangara Dynasty.
Monday - October 10 2005
My friend Srinivas & me left Bangalore at 7 AM. It took us seven hours to reach Hospet in Bellary district, via the NH 4 & NH 13. The 200 kms until Chitradurga on NH4 is a dream drive. From Chitradurga we have to take a deviation into NH 13 towards Sholapur. The remaining 140 Kms on this NH 13 is not on the same level as the first half, as the roads are damaged & narrow.
Our very first stop was the Tungabadra Dam. We were tired & hungry after the long drive. So we couldnt enjoy much. We drove to Hospet & had a much needed lunch. By the time we were settled in our rooms in a very neat & fabulous hotel in Hospet called Hotel Malligi, it was around 5 PM. We freshened up & strolled inside the hotel premises. Did not venture into the Hospet town as it is just like our Bangalore's Kalasipalya.
Tuesday - October 11 2005
Got ready very early and left for Hampi which is 13 Kms from Hospet. We had our breakfast in the Hampi Bazar. The Vijayanagara Dynasty flourished for over four centuries. It was divided into the Sangam Dynasty [1336-1486], Salva Dynasty [1486-1503], Tulu Dynasty [1503-1569] which had the great Sri Krishna Devaraya under whom Vijayanagara saw a golden era and lastly the Aravidu Dynasty [1572-1680].
Reason behind the ruins?
The great Battle of Talikota on January 23 1565 waged by the Muhammadans which is described as one of the most decisive battles in all South Indian History. The Muhammadans emerged victorious on the third day and for five long months, in the words of Sewell (Author of 'A Forgotten Empire'), " with fire and sword, with crowbars and axes they carried on day after day their work of destruction. Never perhaps in the history of the world has such havoc been wrought, and wrought so suddenly, on so splendid a city; teeming with a wealthy and industrious population in the full plentitude of prosperity one day, and on the next seized, pillaged, and reduced to ruins, amid scenes of savage, massacre and horrors beggaring description"
Virupaksha or Pampapati Temple
The magnificient tower is visible from a distance and this is the only temple in the ruin city which has life. It is not known who built it or when it was built. It was renovated many times and also renovated by Sri Krishna Devaraya.
The main shrine contains a stone Linga which is worshipped as symbol of Pampa or Virupaksha. Parts of the temple are said to be older than the founding of the Vijayanagar itself.
It is said when the Muhammadans were on their work of destruction, a pig crossed their way in front of this temple which is an inauspicious sign for the Muslims. When they returned in the night to resume their destruction they saw the crescent moon which they worship and hence the Virupaksha temple was spared of their wrath.
There is a small dark chamber where the light comes through a small brick opening and the shadow of the tower appears upside down. The pin hole camera mechanism !!!
Srinivas taking the blessings of the elephant.
Jain Temples
The Jain temples on the Hemakutam hill near the Virupaksha temple.Their stepped pyramidal towers stand apart among the ruins. At one time the Jain faith seems to have greatly flourished in these parts. The age of these shrines is uncertain.
As Hampi is declared as a World Heritage center by the UNESCO, there is round the clock security in all the temples. We met a security guard from far off Jharkand in one of the Jain temples & had a brief but interesting chat with him.
At around 12 noon during our walk on the hills dotted with Jain architecture we were caught with surprise on encountering a guy dressed like Lord Hanuman. He was a very friendly guy and we struck an instant rapport with him and for the next two days Ganesh aka Hanuman was our guide & companion. The manner in which he climbed the rocks and mountains was amazing.
Sasvekalu Ganesha
The Sasvekalu Ganesha or the Mustard Ganesha installed in an open mantapa.
Krishna Temple
The Krishna temple built by Krishna Devaraya to house the idol which was brought by him from Udayagiri.
Badavi Linga
The Badavi Linga is the biggest of all Lingas in Hampi. This gorgeous Linga made of black stone is 12 feet in height. The inner sanctum has no ceiling. It is always submerged in water since a canal passes through this temple.
Ugra Narasimha
Closer to the Badavi Linga is the Ugra Narasimha which is the biggest idol in Hampi with a height of 22 feet. Behind the head is a serpent with its hood open. This idol is said to have been carved by a Brahmin during Krishna Devaraya's regime.
Chandrikeshwara Temple
Further down the road is the Chandrikeshwara temple.
Akka Thangi Betta
The Sister's Rock or the Akka Thangi Betta. It is said that two sisters were walking down to Hampi from Kamalapura which is 4 kms away. When they got tired of walking and uttered an insult about Hampi as they had not yet reached it even after walking so long, they turned into these rocks.
One of the scene of he famous kannada movie Sri Manjunatha in which Chiranjeevi draws the Shiva Linga in his blood was shot under this Sister's Rock.
The Paada Kallu or the Foot Rock. (Not sure wether it is called so, it was christened by me)
The Danndanayaka Enclosure
This is covered with huge stone walls which contained important administrative structures most of which were still in the construction phase during the invasion.
A grinding stone of the past.
The Muhammadan Watch Tower is a strong and massive square tower and most formidable of its kind in Vijayanagara.
Mahanavami Dibba
The Mahanavami Dibba which was built by Krishna Devaraya in memory of his conquest of Udayagiri,Orrisa. There are carvings of hunting scenes, dance postures and mythological pictures.Many festivities and competitions were said to be celebrated here.
Queens Bath
This is built of mortar and is eight feet deep. There is a canal for water to flow in from outside. There are four outlets for the used water to flow out.
Pushkarni
The Stepped Tank or the sacred Pushkarni.
Hazaararama Temple.
This was built by Krishna Devyaraya in 1513 and dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
It is replete with engravings of Yoga postures,gods,godesses and dashavatara.
'The myth' starring Jackie Chan & Mallika Sherawath was largely shot here. Our guide Ganesh claims to have got a big tip from Jackie Chan.
Zanana Enclosure.
The zanana enclosure is a structural complex with tall enclosure walls on all four sides. The structures in it are in Indo-Islamic style of architecture and are judiciously spaced exemplifying manifestations of Vijayanagara secular architecture
The Watch Tower inside the Zanana Enclosure.
Lotus Mahal
The Lotus Mahal is a two storeyed building built of mortar. It is an example of Indo-Islamic architecture.
Elephant Stable
The Elephant Stable was meant for the royal elephants. There are eleven stables. All these are interconnected with small doors. This building with archs is built of stone and mortar and the cielings are dome shaped.
Some of the idols kept on display in the museum inside the enclosure namely the Ganesha & the Veeragallu or The Hero Stone dating back to 763 AD & 92 AD respectively.
Madhava / Ranga Temple
The Madhava temple dedicated to Lord Ranga.
The Underground Temple
The Siva temple which was intentionally built below the level of the surrounding ground so that the Linga might stand surrounded by water.
By the time we covered all these spots it began to rain. The walk back to Hampi in the evening showers combined with the non sense talk of Ganesh was fun.
The ruins in the sunset.
We drove back to Hospet from Hampi and retired for the day.
Wednesday - October 12 2005
Hampi Bazaar
The famous Hampi Bazaar in front of the Virupaksha Temple.It is said at that time precious stones and gems were sold in heaps on this very street. The old bazaar is now filled with shops and hotels on either side and buzzes with activity.
Achutharaya Temple.
This temple was built by the younger brother of Krishna Devaraya, Achutaraya.This bears similarity with the Vittala temple built by Krishna Devaraya. This temple lies in close proximity with the Matanga Hill.
The Matanga Parvatam has a temple which contains a black stone image of Vishnu. The climb to the top provides a spectacular view of the city,the river and the surrounding country. However I couldnt ascend the hill this time.
The Courtesans Street
The Soolai Bazaar or The Dancing-girls street.The dancing girls are said to have occupied this street. The houses are in ruins now, but sufficient remains to show that it was once a handsome thouroughfare. The scared Matanga Parvatam and the temple gives the street a very picturesque setting.
There is a small tank or bath with a ruined pavillion in its center which is presumed to be used by the dancing girls.
Sacred Symbols
This temple has the stone wall engraving of the Pig, Crescent Moon and the Sword, which played an important role during the Muhammadan rampage, because of which (mentioned earlier) the Virupaksha temple still stands towering amidst the ruins.
It is belived that poor people who dont have a home of thier own would build one very soon, if they make a small house from the stones here.
Jain Temples
Jain temples near the Soolai Bazaar.It stands on rising ground above the pathway facing the river & Matanga Parvatam and has the usual step tower over the shrine which is generally associated with Jain temples.
Kings Balance.
It is said the Kings weighed themselves with gems & diamonds which was later distributed among the poor.
Vijaya Vittala Temple
This is one of the best sculptures of Hampi built by Krishna Devaraya in 1513. The pillars have been subtly sculpted with figures of angels, lotus, swans, yoga postures & horses etched beautifully.
The temple is famous for its musical pillars.
Samples of the mesmerizing work on the stone.
This carving here provides five different views .
It is said that diamonds were embedded on the ceilings for illuminating the courtyard.
'The myth' was shot widely in this temple too.
The world famous stone chariot.
Purandara Mantapa
The Purandara Mantapa on the banks of Tungabadra was dedicated to Shri Purandara Dasa when he was in Vijayanagara in 1540. He propogated the path of devotion through his songs in Kannada.
Admiring the ruins..
Sugriva's Cave
This is the cave where Sugriva kept Sita's jewels and saree which fell down from the Pushpaka Vimaana when she was being Kidnapped to Lanka by Ravana. The marks on the rock made by her saree as it fell can still be seen.
The inner view of the Sugrivas Cave.
The Tungabadra River. The ruins of the old bridge built by the Kings of Vijayanagara can be seen here.It connected Anegundi to Vijayanagar.
We had breakfast at 11-30 and then crossed this river in a motor boat to the Hippy Island which is not an Island in reality. This place has a lot of foriegn tourists.
From here we walked to Kishkinda which is supposed to be the birth place of Lord Hanuman.
It is said that Hanuman as a kid had jumped up from this mountain to catch hold of the Sun which he thought was a ball.
View from the Anjaneya Betta in Kishkinda.
By the time we were back in Hampi it was around 4. We bid adieu to the ruins and went back to Hospet where we had lunch and then proceeded to the Tungabadra Dam. It was raining heavily all through the evening. Here are a couple of shots which I could manage to take,
Thursday - October 13 2005
We left Hospet at 6 in the morning. The drive back to Bangalore was wonderful with a continous downpour all through.
Four days - 750 Kms drive - 30 Kms walk amidst the ruins - Journey into past. Was a perfect break from the usual mundane life.
Monday - October 10 2005
My friend Srinivas & me left Bangalore at 7 AM. It took us seven hours to reach Hospet in Bellary district, via the NH 4 & NH 13. The 200 kms until Chitradurga on NH4 is a dream drive. From Chitradurga we have to take a deviation into NH 13 towards Sholapur. The remaining 140 Kms on this NH 13 is not on the same level as the first half, as the roads are damaged & narrow.
Our very first stop was the Tungabadra Dam. We were tired & hungry after the long drive. So we couldnt enjoy much. We drove to Hospet & had a much needed lunch. By the time we were settled in our rooms in a very neat & fabulous hotel in Hospet called Hotel Malligi, it was around 5 PM. We freshened up & strolled inside the hotel premises. Did not venture into the Hospet town as it is just like our Bangalore's Kalasipalya.
Tuesday - October 11 2005
Got ready very early and left for Hampi which is 13 Kms from Hospet. We had our breakfast in the Hampi Bazar. The Vijayanagara Dynasty flourished for over four centuries. It was divided into the Sangam Dynasty [1336-1486], Salva Dynasty [1486-1503], Tulu Dynasty [1503-1569] which had the great Sri Krishna Devaraya under whom Vijayanagara saw a golden era and lastly the Aravidu Dynasty [1572-1680].
Reason behind the ruins?
The great Battle of Talikota on January 23 1565 waged by the Muhammadans which is described as one of the most decisive battles in all South Indian History. The Muhammadans emerged victorious on the third day and for five long months, in the words of Sewell (Author of 'A Forgotten Empire'), " with fire and sword, with crowbars and axes they carried on day after day their work of destruction. Never perhaps in the history of the world has such havoc been wrought, and wrought so suddenly, on so splendid a city; teeming with a wealthy and industrious population in the full plentitude of prosperity one day, and on the next seized, pillaged, and reduced to ruins, amid scenes of savage, massacre and horrors beggaring description"
Virupaksha or Pampapati Temple
The magnificient tower is visible from a distance and this is the only temple in the ruin city which has life. It is not known who built it or when it was built. It was renovated many times and also renovated by Sri Krishna Devaraya.
The main shrine contains a stone Linga which is worshipped as symbol of Pampa or Virupaksha. Parts of the temple are said to be older than the founding of the Vijayanagar itself.
It is said when the Muhammadans were on their work of destruction, a pig crossed their way in front of this temple which is an inauspicious sign for the Muslims. When they returned in the night to resume their destruction they saw the crescent moon which they worship and hence the Virupaksha temple was spared of their wrath.
There is a small dark chamber where the light comes through a small brick opening and the shadow of the tower appears upside down. The pin hole camera mechanism !!!
Srinivas taking the blessings of the elephant.
Jain Temples
The Jain temples on the Hemakutam hill near the Virupaksha temple.Their stepped pyramidal towers stand apart among the ruins. At one time the Jain faith seems to have greatly flourished in these parts. The age of these shrines is uncertain.
As Hampi is declared as a World Heritage center by the UNESCO, there is round the clock security in all the temples. We met a security guard from far off Jharkand in one of the Jain temples & had a brief but interesting chat with him.
At around 12 noon during our walk on the hills dotted with Jain architecture we were caught with surprise on encountering a guy dressed like Lord Hanuman. He was a very friendly guy and we struck an instant rapport with him and for the next two days Ganesh aka Hanuman was our guide & companion. The manner in which he climbed the rocks and mountains was amazing.
Sasvekalu Ganesha
The Sasvekalu Ganesha or the Mustard Ganesha installed in an open mantapa.
Krishna Temple
The Krishna temple built by Krishna Devaraya to house the idol which was brought by him from Udayagiri.
Badavi Linga
The Badavi Linga is the biggest of all Lingas in Hampi. This gorgeous Linga made of black stone is 12 feet in height. The inner sanctum has no ceiling. It is always submerged in water since a canal passes through this temple.
Ugra Narasimha
Closer to the Badavi Linga is the Ugra Narasimha which is the biggest idol in Hampi with a height of 22 feet. Behind the head is a serpent with its hood open. This idol is said to have been carved by a Brahmin during Krishna Devaraya's regime.
Chandrikeshwara Temple
Further down the road is the Chandrikeshwara temple.
Akka Thangi Betta
The Sister's Rock or the Akka Thangi Betta. It is said that two sisters were walking down to Hampi from Kamalapura which is 4 kms away. When they got tired of walking and uttered an insult about Hampi as they had not yet reached it even after walking so long, they turned into these rocks.
One of the scene of he famous kannada movie Sri Manjunatha in which Chiranjeevi draws the Shiva Linga in his blood was shot under this Sister's Rock.
The Paada Kallu or the Foot Rock. (Not sure wether it is called so, it was christened by me)
The Danndanayaka Enclosure
This is covered with huge stone walls which contained important administrative structures most of which were still in the construction phase during the invasion.
A grinding stone of the past.
The Muhammadan Watch Tower is a strong and massive square tower and most formidable of its kind in Vijayanagara.
Mahanavami Dibba
The Mahanavami Dibba which was built by Krishna Devaraya in memory of his conquest of Udayagiri,Orrisa. There are carvings of hunting scenes, dance postures and mythological pictures.Many festivities and competitions were said to be celebrated here.
Queens Bath
This is built of mortar and is eight feet deep. There is a canal for water to flow in from outside. There are four outlets for the used water to flow out.
Pushkarni
The Stepped Tank or the sacred Pushkarni.
Hazaararama Temple.
This was built by Krishna Devyaraya in 1513 and dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
It is replete with engravings of Yoga postures,gods,godesses and dashavatara.
'The myth' starring Jackie Chan & Mallika Sherawath was largely shot here. Our guide Ganesh claims to have got a big tip from Jackie Chan.
Zanana Enclosure.
The zanana enclosure is a structural complex with tall enclosure walls on all four sides. The structures in it are in Indo-Islamic style of architecture and are judiciously spaced exemplifying manifestations of Vijayanagara secular architecture
The Watch Tower inside the Zanana Enclosure.
Lotus Mahal
The Lotus Mahal is a two storeyed building built of mortar. It is an example of Indo-Islamic architecture.
Elephant Stable
The Elephant Stable was meant for the royal elephants. There are eleven stables. All these are interconnected with small doors. This building with archs is built of stone and mortar and the cielings are dome shaped.
Some of the idols kept on display in the museum inside the enclosure namely the Ganesha & the Veeragallu or The Hero Stone dating back to 763 AD & 92 AD respectively.
Madhava / Ranga Temple
The Madhava temple dedicated to Lord Ranga.
The Underground Temple
The Siva temple which was intentionally built below the level of the surrounding ground so that the Linga might stand surrounded by water.
By the time we covered all these spots it began to rain. The walk back to Hampi in the evening showers combined with the non sense talk of Ganesh was fun.
The ruins in the sunset.
We drove back to Hospet from Hampi and retired for the day.
Wednesday - October 12 2005
Hampi Bazaar
The famous Hampi Bazaar in front of the Virupaksha Temple.It is said at that time precious stones and gems were sold in heaps on this very street. The old bazaar is now filled with shops and hotels on either side and buzzes with activity.
Achutharaya Temple.
This temple was built by the younger brother of Krishna Devaraya, Achutaraya.This bears similarity with the Vittala temple built by Krishna Devaraya. This temple lies in close proximity with the Matanga Hill.
The Matanga Parvatam has a temple which contains a black stone image of Vishnu. The climb to the top provides a spectacular view of the city,the river and the surrounding country. However I couldnt ascend the hill this time.
The Courtesans Street
The Soolai Bazaar or The Dancing-girls street.The dancing girls are said to have occupied this street. The houses are in ruins now, but sufficient remains to show that it was once a handsome thouroughfare. The scared Matanga Parvatam and the temple gives the street a very picturesque setting.
There is a small tank or bath with a ruined pavillion in its center which is presumed to be used by the dancing girls.
Sacred Symbols
This temple has the stone wall engraving of the Pig, Crescent Moon and the Sword, which played an important role during the Muhammadan rampage, because of which (mentioned earlier) the Virupaksha temple still stands towering amidst the ruins.
It is belived that poor people who dont have a home of thier own would build one very soon, if they make a small house from the stones here.
Jain Temples
Jain temples near the Soolai Bazaar.It stands on rising ground above the pathway facing the river & Matanga Parvatam and has the usual step tower over the shrine which is generally associated with Jain temples.
Kings Balance.
It is said the Kings weighed themselves with gems & diamonds which was later distributed among the poor.
Vijaya Vittala Temple
This is one of the best sculptures of Hampi built by Krishna Devaraya in 1513. The pillars have been subtly sculpted with figures of angels, lotus, swans, yoga postures & horses etched beautifully.
The temple is famous for its musical pillars.
Samples of the mesmerizing work on the stone.
This carving here provides five different views .
It is said that diamonds were embedded on the ceilings for illuminating the courtyard.
'The myth' was shot widely in this temple too.
The world famous stone chariot.
Purandara Mantapa
The Purandara Mantapa on the banks of Tungabadra was dedicated to Shri Purandara Dasa when he was in Vijayanagara in 1540. He propogated the path of devotion through his songs in Kannada.
Admiring the ruins..
Sugriva's Cave
This is the cave where Sugriva kept Sita's jewels and saree which fell down from the Pushpaka Vimaana when she was being Kidnapped to Lanka by Ravana. The marks on the rock made by her saree as it fell can still be seen.
The inner view of the Sugrivas Cave.
The Tungabadra River. The ruins of the old bridge built by the Kings of Vijayanagara can be seen here.It connected Anegundi to Vijayanagar.
We had breakfast at 11-30 and then crossed this river in a motor boat to the Hippy Island which is not an Island in reality. This place has a lot of foriegn tourists.
From here we walked to Kishkinda which is supposed to be the birth place of Lord Hanuman.
It is said that Hanuman as a kid had jumped up from this mountain to catch hold of the Sun which he thought was a ball.
View from the Anjaneya Betta in Kishkinda.
By the time we were back in Hampi it was around 4. We bid adieu to the ruins and went back to Hospet where we had lunch and then proceeded to the Tungabadra Dam. It was raining heavily all through the evening. Here are a couple of shots which I could manage to take,
Thursday - October 13 2005
We left Hospet at 6 in the morning. The drive back to Bangalore was wonderful with a continous downpour all through.
Four days - 750 Kms drive - 30 Kms walk amidst the ruins - Journey into past. Was a perfect break from the usual mundane life.
23 Opinions:
great shots i must say and good text too. especially liked the ones you took of Queens bath and Hazararama Temple.
u should travel more and include more posts you know ;-)
hmmmmm....
i am just spell bound...
Had been to Hampi sometime last year... recollected my trip.. but it was just 1 day and i wished i could spend more time there...
Spectacular beautiful pics....
Hi Karthik,
very spectacular pictures. I feel like visiting Hampi next time.
Hi Katthik
very cool pics of hampi. This was a
Kind of deja vu , and I hope to visit
hampi along with u sometime later.
it is really really good to see.
you expressed hampi really in a wonderfull manner by covering whole hampi.
Regards
Prashant
Karthik great job man,Ur doing a great job capturing our heritage.The text above the photos adequeatly describe them. Hope u visit more places and hope to join u sometime
Hey Karthik,
I liked ur first travelogue - Trip to Talakadu. You know what- that post of yours inspired me to go to Shivanasamudram and me and my brother actually went there. This one -Trip to Hampi is trully awe inspiring.
Visit a lot more places and keep writing. After seeing this ,I think I will be going to Hampi soon althogh I have seen it many times (I actually stayed in Hospet for 2 years).
Hi Karthik,
Its a virtual tour of Hampi. Though I have not seen Hampi, Was planning from very long time to go to Hampi. Will go to Hampi as soon as I come back. Its a great collection. Keep this good work going.
Sakkattagide maga, yaaranna jyotege karkondhogidde; full maja madidiya ansutte; foto antu ultimate aagive; keep it up.
great shots Karthik...especially the Elephant one and the last two! informative too~
liked the way you have made changes on the layout. good idea. and thanks for linking me up!
Great series of shots. You asked me about a dslr. I shoot with a Nikon D70s, which can be used either fully manual, fully automatic, or somewhere in between, and it's a reasonable price. Of course, I already had a handful of Nikon lenses, which I was able to transfer over. Hope this helps!
It would have been good if you have shot the stone chariot from a diagonal point. As you have taken both the shots on planar front, it is not able to give the depth.
Hey karthik, you are wonderful
Magnificiant shots, you have captuered photoes wonderful
Though i stay at Hospet, i my self astonished seeing such a nice photoes you have takn
Hats off to you
Thank you
venkatesh
venkatesh5em1234@yahoo.com
i bow to u bro!!! u r at ur best writing travelogues..
been long since i visited ur blog :)
Kathik---- You rule!!!
A great blog bro and the photographs are truely amazing
Way 2 go brother
Cheers!
karthik - Thumba chennagide ninna kelsa. Keep it up!
heY!!! u really got sioem talent here going? waht cam do u use...the quality is very nice...ridhi(fractally speaking)
Fantastic, and the pics are breathtaking. Great job. Keep it up. Now I am intrigued to visit Lord Hanuman's birth place. Thanks again for all the information.
Rgds
Santosh
Satyavati said, very informative. do add details of stay and nitty gritty of how to walk 30km around the site. It is sad to see such hate crimes of Islamic rulers being swept under the carpet. Hindus have given asylum to parsis way back. Some religions are just too beastly, they can never appreciate finer things in life like art, architecture, dharma and romance.
Great Empire!! Great History and your snaps are simply fantastic.
The bloody sultan's single aim was to laying VIJAYANAGARA as waste.
Crooked fellows, thieves and the Zilony brothers in the Aliya Rama Raya commanders were bloody basterds.
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